Safe Second Scuba Dive Regulators A Diver’s Best Friend

Sherwood Safe Second.

One of the first things taught in diver training is how to share air in an  emergency situation. And while it is taught in dive training, it should be  practiced to nausea m by every scuba diver of every level. An out of air scuba  diver might not get a second chance if the diver and dive buddy aren’t prepared  for an emergency. It is all in its name, safe second (safe) scuba regulators. It  will be a good waste of money if a diver never has to use it. On the other hand  it will be the best money a diver will have ever spent if it saves the life of  the diver or as importantly a dive buddy. One could argue that safe second dive  regulators are a diver’s most important piece of dive gear.

When purchasing a safe second don’t confuse cheap with inexpensive. It’s not  a good idea to purchase a used safe second off eBay or use a hand me down. A  diver in an out of air situation is stressful enough without exasperating the  problem with a failed safe second as well. A scuba diver hopes never to use the  safe second but if a diver does need to use the safe second it needs to function  without flaw. After reading several reviews on safe second (alternate air)  regulators for diving, name brands such as XS Scuba, Sherwood, TUSA, ScubaPro  and others, it really comes down to ease of use, comfort and price. They are all  good to say the least and more importantly they are all safe and high quality  scuba regulators at comparable prices. Some have a mouthpiece that can turn up  to 90 degrees for more comfort and ease of use, and other variations. It is  really what each scuba diver needs or doesn’t need. As far as safety you can’t  go wrong purchasing any of them.

Each scuba diver has to purchase the right scuba regulator for themselves and  their needs. The most dangerous safe second is the one a diver needs and doesn’t  have attached to their buoyancy compensator (bcd). If a diver logs enough dives  through a period of years, it is a safe bet that an out of air diver situation  will occur and every diver should be prepared for it. Don’t be the diver that  didn’t have a safe second regulator for diving. Buy one today and the life you  save might be yours.

Ronnie Price enjoys writing articles on scuba diving with the goal of  introducing people to underwater attractions

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6991365

Kathy Dowsett

www.kirkscubagear.com

How to Put on a Wetsuit

How to put on a Wetsuit
1
Entering your wetsuit: Great! You have your new wetsuit and now you are ready to put it on. Now it is easier to put on a wetsuit if you are dry and the wetsuit is dry. (hint: it is also easier to put a wetsuit on if you have a rash guard or skin suit on, the slippery fabric is super helpful and can change your experience of putting on a wetsuit) Okay, if you have a wetsuit with a vertical zipper, the zipper goes in the back along your spine. This is often a common mistake, no worries, zipper in back. If you have a horizontal zipper that runs across the chest of the wetsuit or a zipper less wetsuit, you will enter the wetsuit from the top. The zipper will be across your chest if there is a zipper. If you are putting on a Triathlon wetsuit, be very careful that your finger nails do not tear your wetsuit; you have to be very gentle with triathlon wetsuits because they are not coated with a nylon coating on the exterior of the neoprene.
2
Start at your ankles, then knees, up to groin: Make sure the zipper on the wetsuit, if you have one, is all the way down. Make sure you are sitting so that you don’t down. Have bare feet, do not have boots on, put your wetsuit on one leg at a time. Make sure that the bottom of the first leg of the wetsuit is up above the ankle of your wetsuit, this will ensure that you get the proper fit bottom up. Now pull the wetsuit up behind your knees and slowly pull the wetsuit up to your groin area. Go ahead and put your other leg in the wetsuit and repeat the same steps. It is important that you have your wetsuit pulled up, without wrinkles into the groin. If this area is not snug, you will have tightness in the chest, shoulders, neck and arms. If you are taller you may need to make sure your wetsuit is a bit higher on your lower leg, no worries, most boots will cover the extra inch or so exposed on the ankle.
3
Waist, Chest, Arms and Neck: Now that the wetsuit is snug up in the groin area, pull the wetsuit up around your waist and chest. Don’t rush to put your arms in, you will regret it. Now that you have the wetsuit up your chest, treat your arms like your legs, put one arm in the sleeve at a time. Make sure the wrist of the suit is right at the wrist before you proceed gently pulling up through the elbow and then up in the arm pit area. Go ahead and repeat these steps on the other arm. Make sure your wetsuit is nice and snug in the arm pit, if not you will lose range of motion. If you feel any tightness in the neck, make sure from ankles all the way up that you have taken the wrinkles out and are snug in the groin all the way up. This is often the number one reason for improper fit.
4
Zip and Velcro your wetsuit: Once you have the proper fit, go ahead and reach back for the zipper cord and pull up and zip up your wetsuit. Most wetsuits have a Velcro around the neck, go ahead and Velcro the neck flap.
5
Protect your Feet, Heads, and Hands: We lose most of our heat through our heads, feet and hands. It is important that you protect your extremities.
6
BOOTS: If you are wearing boots, make sure you roll up your wetsuit at ankle, put your boots on and roll your wetsuit back over the boots. Putting the wetsuit inside your boots will not allow your wetsuit to flush and will fill your ankles, legs and feet with water.
7
HOODS: If you wear a hood with a bib, make sure you put your hood before you zip up your wetsuit. The bib goes under the neck of your wetsuit. If your hood does not have a bib, you can put it on any time. Hoods provide thermal protection for your head as well as protect your ears.
8
Gloves: If you are wearing gloves, put them on after you have put your wetsuit on.
9
Thermal Shirts and Suits: Sometimes you may need an added layer of thermal protection during colder times of the year. We recommend a 1mm thermal shirt or suit that will add an additional 1mm of thermal protection throughout if you are wearing a suit. If you wear a long sleeve you will have added warmth throughout your chest, shoulders and arms. If you are wearing a 1mm thermal shirt, you will have added warmth in your chest and shoulders. Thermal suits and shirts will have an associated thickness with them like 1mm. Rash guards do not provide thermal protection but they do help with putting wetsuits on and taking them off.

Thanks to Pleasure Sports

Kathy Dowsett
www.kirkscubagear.com

Dive Computers – The Most Important Functions

Modern dive computers are complex devices with so many functions and features that sorting them all out can get downright dizzying. But that’s only the initial impression. Once you go through the owner’s manual and set the basic parameters — feet or meters, Fahrenheit or Celsius, perhaps time and date — you probably won’t have to mess with those again. So that only leaves the functions that may change from dive to dive, which are actually the most important.

1. Select Your Algorithm If you happen to own a dive computer that lets you do this, consider yourself lucky, because this can be a valuable function. What you get is a choice between diving with a liberal algorithm or a conservative algorithm. The algorithm you choose may change from day to day based on how rigorous the diving conditions are or how you might feel physically. This function is also useful when you want to choose the algorithm that most closely matches your dive buddy’s computer, so you can dive with similar computations for no-decompression limits (NDLs) and bottom time, thereby allowing you both to follow the same profile without one having to break off and surface early.

2. Set the Conservative Factor Virtually all dive computers provide a way to set or factor in a level of conservatism for your dive. Once again, this is something that may change from day to day due to both external and internal conditions. Most computers offer ways to actually program in levels of conservatism by employing specific conservative factor settings, personal settings or altitude settings. Computers that don’t offer a programming function usually have bar graphs that enable you to build in a safety factor by backing off on the NDL loading pixels. Or, you can always refer to the No-Deco countdown and mentally subtract, say, 10 minutes from the NDL reading when you’re in 60 to 100 feet of water, or three minutes when you’re deeper than 100 feet. Either way, the goal is to program in or prepare for whatever game plan you’ve chosen before hitting the water.

3. Set to Air or Nitrox Virtually all recreational diving is done on air or 32 percent nitrox or 36 percent nitrox. Many divers will alternate between air and nitrox depending on their dive trip, dive day or dive profile. Also, most computers have a default mode for nitrox settings that kick in after 24 hours, so even if you dive 32 percent nitrox all the time, you still need to double check your nitrox setting before your giant-stride to make sure your computer and your cylinder are on the same page.

4. Set Alarms (Max Depth, Tank Pressure, Turn-Around) Some divers like audible alarms and some prefer visual alarms, but no matter your preference, remember that spending time in an inherently hazardous environment — with so many fish to admire, bat rays to chase and corals to photograph — can be extremely distracting. You really need effective ways to remind yourself to check your air, depth, bottom time and NDLs. Setting a maximum depth alarm is good practice in general but critical if you’re diving nitrox. Inching close to remaining bottom time is another good reason for sounding an alarm, as is air time remaining if you’re diving with an air integrated computer. Programming alarms during your pre-dive ritual is all part of planning your dive and diving your plan.

5. Set Safety Stop and Deep Stop Parameters On some computers, safety-stop settings are pre-programmed and therefore automatic. Other computers let you do your own programming. A standard safety stop is three minutes at 15 to 20 feet. Some divers who know they’re going to be pushing the limits will program in a five-minute stop just for good measure. Some computers also offer a deep stop function. The controversy continues as to whether the deep stop is actually a safety benefit. Some experts say if your computer offers it, then use it. Other experts say deep stops are not helpful so don’t bother. Virtually all deep stop functions can be disabled, so you have the option of using it or not using it.

Thanks to Sport Diver—always a good read

Kathy Dowsett

www.kirkscubagear.com

NEW :: Aeris Accel Fin with reviews

coming soon to kirkscubagear 2013 April

One Fin, Any Ocean. Coming Soon. APRIL 2013

A Smarter Blade Design The Accel’s pronounced side rails and center channel direct thrust behind the diver for maximum propulsion. Vents at the base of the blade improve water flow down the length of the blade for greater efficiency. With its excellent water flow characteristics, the Accel allows divers to swim efficiently with multiple kicking styles, from scissor to frog to sculling. High-Stretch Heel Strap Unique, high-stretch strap design dramatically reduces the bulk and drag of typical open heel fins, all while being effortless to slip on and off. The Accel’s foot pocket posts also accept standard quick-release buckle fin strap assemblies. Any Foot. Any Surface. Streamlined foot pocket design accommodates a wide range of boot styles. Underneath, the textured sole provides traction on boat decks and other slick surfaces. A Full Spectrum of Possibilities. The Accel line features a full line of available color kits. The highly durable blade material ensures the Accel will last long after it becomes divers’ favorite fin. Transform your fin to match your team or to impress a lover. Details: Angled blade ensures the best angle of attack for each kicking stroke. Side rails and center channel direct thrust behind the diver for maximum propulsion. Vents at the base of the blade improve water flow down the length of the blade for greater efficiency. High-stretch heel strap is fully adjustable and easy to slip on and off. Foot pocket posts also accept standard quick-release buckle fin strap assemblies. Streamlined foot pocket design accommodates a wide range of boot styles. Textured sole provides traction on boat decks and slick surfaces. Compact blade is easy to pack and great for maneuvering in tight spaces. Accel Fin | Reviews The first thing I noticed was how when I picked up the fin I almost threw it through the roof of the boat—it was feather light. I was really curious how it would perform and to my amazement it performed as well as any comparable paddle blade fin and in many cases better. For energy expended the thrust delivered was outstanding and I did not seem to reach a point of diminishing return where you out-kick (cavitates) the fin. This fin could be a game changer. —Buddy Brown, AUP Regional Sales Manager, Southeast I tried the Accel fin for the first time in the Bahamas on a boat dive. Although it is a smaller travel fin, it kicked with a lot more force than I had expected. I tried different types of kicks while I was using it, and was surprised at how well it worked for all styles (especially the frog kick). The unique strap made it easy to get on and off, but what I noticed the most about it was how comfortable it was. Hands down this was the best fin for that type of diving that I have ever used. —Joey Brown, AUP Regional Sales Manager, Southeast I recently had the opportunity to dive the new Accel Fin Aeris in Bimini. It was my understanding the fin was primarily designed as a travel fin because it is only 20” long and will fit in a standard carry-on bag. The performance of the fin absolutely blew me away. On one of the dive we had a current that was ripping along at about 2 knots. The fin worked flawlessly and gave me all the power I needed to move into the current. The foot pocket was comfortable enough to use a LavaCore sock but I could have used a boot if needed. The fin strap was unique as well; I’ve never seen anything like it and it worked great. —Bill Mitchell, AUP Regional Sales Manager, Midwest Having the chance to dive the ACCEL fin on a dive with a high current I was very impressed with the power for its size. I also found the fin to be very responsive to changes in my kick. Great fin for the size and price! —Ray Bullion, AUP Regional Sales Manager, Southwest “When I first saw the ACCEL fin, I thought, “nice travel fin”. However, once I got in the water with doubles, even in a current, the fin’s performance astounded me. Its thrust was equivalent to that of any cold water fin I’ve used and the small size makes the fin an asset to any diver in any condition. I would recommend this fin to any diver from beginning open water all the way to instructor.” —David Saavedra, AUP Regional Sales Manager, Pacific Northwest These fins are phenomenal. If anyone has ever said “love at first kick” was a myth, they haven’t tried the new Aeris ACCEL fins. I had the privilege of testing these fins out in Bimini and I was not disappointed in the least. They pack the power of a full size paddle fin, but can fit snuggly into your carry-on without taking up too much space. The thrust brought me to cruising speed within a couple of fin strokes and not once did I feel fatigued. Anything that looks this good with the performance to back it up is a slam dunk in my book. —Mike Williams, AUP Regional Sales Manager, Northeast   Reprinted from Aeris Kathy Dowsett www.kirkscubagear.com

Open-Heeled vs Full-Footed Fins

Which Fin Style Is Right for You?

When purchasing dive gear, every diver will have to make an important choice when it come to fins. Should he buy full-footed fins or open-heeled fins and booties? I recommend open-heeled fins and dive booties to almost every diver, but there are advantages and disadvantages to each style. Which type of fin is right for you?

What Are Full-Footed Fins?

Full-footed fins have soft, flexible foot pockets which completely surround the divers feet, including his heels. These fins are usually worn without socks or booties, but some divers like to use neoprene diving socks to prevent the fin from rubbing blisters on their feet. Full-footed fins are most commonly used in tropical or warm waters, where thermal protection is not a concern.

What Are Open-Heeled Fins?

 

Open-heeled fins have foot pockets that are open in the back. The foot pockets are normally made out of more rigid material than the foot pockets of full-footed fins. These fins are designed to be worn with dive booties. The sizes tend to run larger than the sizes of full-footed fins in order to accommodate the extra bulk of the booties. Because dive booties vary in thickness and shape, it is essential to try on open-heeled fins with the booties you intend to use before purchase. Open-heeled fins are used in water of all temperatures, and are essential in cold water environments for thermal protection.

 

The Pro and Cons of Full-Footed Fins

 

1. Fewer Pieces of Dive Gear: Diving is an equipment intensive sport, and each piece of a dive gear is essential. Because full-footed fins do not require booties, a diver has two less pieces of dive gear to remember, which makes packing for a dive trip easier and misplacing a piece of gear on a dive boat less likely.

2. Less Expensive: A diver who purchases full-footed fins does not need to purchase dive booties, which typically cost anywhere from $40 to $100 USD. Divers who have already spent a significant amount of money on gear may prefer full-footed fins for the savings.

3. Less Adjustable: Most open-heeled fins come with an adjustable heel strap which allows a diver to tighten or loosen the fin. In contrast, full-footed fins are not adjustable. The foot pocket either fits or it doesn’t. Divers with very large or very small feet may have a difficult time finding full-footed fins that fit properly.

4. Less Protection: Divers who dive primarily from boats do not have the need for foot protection. For these divers, full-footed fins may be the simplest choice. However, those who make shore entries over rough surfaces, or need to walk geared-up to the dive site may prefer open-heeled fins and dive booties for the protection. Otherwise, divers who use full-footed fins may need to wear shoes to the dive site and then leave them on the shore while diving.

5. More Difficult to Put on and Remove: Properly-fitting full-footed fins are quite snug; any movement of the fins may cause blisters. Squeezing your foot into the tight pocket of a full-footed fin may be more difficult than simply loosening the strap of an open-heeled fin and then tightening it once the foot is in place.

 

The Pros and Cons of Open-Heeled Fins

 

1. Thermal Protection: Open-heeled fins are typically used with neoprene dive booties, which help to protect a diver’s feet from the cold. Full-footed fins leave a diver’s feet exposed to the water. Divers who plan to make dives in cold water or who chill easily will be more comfortable in open-heeled fins with dive booties. Open-heeled fins are also essential when using a dry suit, as dry suits enclose a diver’s feet. Dry suit feet can not be shoved into full-footed fins comfortably.

 

The Take-Home Message About Full-Footed and Open-Heeled Fins

 

Full-footed fins work well for many warm-water diving scenarios. However, if a diver plans on making cold water dives or shore entries, or simply prefers a more adjustable fin, open-heeled fins and dive booties are the way to go. If money if not a concern, I recommend purchasing open-heeled fins, dive booties, and spring straps.

2. Protection From Rough Surfaces & Slipping: Dive booties protect a diver’s feet from rough, hot, or cold surfaces, making them essential when performing shore entries over rocky ground. On a dive boat, the grip on the soles of dive booties may help a diver to keep from slipping on slick or wet surfaces.

3. Ease of Adjustment: Open-heeled fins typically have adjustable straps, which make tightening or loosening the fins to fit unusual foot sizes possible. The straps can also be loosened to make donning and removing the fins easier.

4. More Expensive: Purchasing open-heeled fins and dive booties usually costs more than purchasing full-footed fins. Open-heeled fins are generally more expensive than full-footed fins, and divers must account for the additional cost of the booties.

5. Booties May Cause Blisters: When diving with open-heeled fins, selecting the correct dive booties is essential. Some dive booties have internal seams, which may rub uncomfortably on a diver’s feet and even cause blisters. Shoes must be fit properly to avoid pinching, but dive booties must fit both the diver’s feet and the fins properly. This adds an extra step to the purchasing process.

 

Consider Spring Straps for Open-Heeled Fins

 

Spring straps are flexible spring or bungee straps that are used in place of standard fin straps with clasps of buckles. Spring straps make donning a removing open-heeled fins incredibly easy, and often hold fins more tightly in place that standard fin straps. Spring straps may are available for most fin models.

 

Thanks to Natalie Gibb and About.com

 

Kathy Dowsett

www.kirkscubagear.com

 

Tips for Avoiding Mask Leaks

Thanks to Sport Diver and John Brumm

A leaky mask has got to be the most annoying thing a diver has to  deal with when trying to enjoy a dive (with a fogged-up mask coming in a close second). So any extra effort you can invest in the dive store fitting a new mask to your face is definitely time well spent.

However, the standard dry-fit procedure of centering the mask on your face, making sure all skirt edges are in contact with your skin, then inhaling gently —without the strap attached — to see whether you can get an airtight seal, won’t necessarily guarantee that you’re going to have a leak-proof dive. While some lucky divers are able to put their masks on and hit the water and never touch their mask for the entire dive, for most of us, getting our mask fully sealed takes a little finesse. We’ve got some tips to avoid those annoying leaks:

• After giant-striding into the water and popping to the surface, take a moment to remove your mask, give your head a good double-dunking, and hand-squeegee your hair back and away from your face. Then, position the mask on your face before stretching the strap over your head. If you’re wearing a hood, you can forgo the hair step as long as no renegade strands are sticking out. But run a finger around the edge of the hood opening to make sure the mask skirt is against your skin and not overlapping the neoprene.

• Double-check to make sure the mask is properly centered on your face. If it’s not, you probably will break the seal once you start diving. Also, double-check the position of the strap on the back of your head. If it it’s too high, it tends to lift the bottom of the skirt; if too low, it affects the top of the skirt. If it’s too tight, it can distort the shape of the skirt — that can break the seal too.

• Just before descending, push the mask lens inward, forcing some air out and creating a good air pressure seal. Now you’re ready for your descent. Once under water, if the seal is sound, water pressure should take over and you should be good to go. At some point, you’ll probably want to nose-blow a little air back in to avoid getting mask squeeze as you go deeper.

By following these steps hopefully you’ll be able to pull off a dive without having to contend with water constantly seeping—or gushing—into the mask. If not, well, there are always purge masks.

Kathy Dowsett

www.kirkscubagear.com

5 Easy Steps for Maintaining Your Reg

Mares Proton Regulator @ kirkscubagear

A modern regulator is an extremely reliable mechanism. So reliable, in fact, that some divers will take their regs on countless dives and never so much as rinse them off. Yet they keep on delivering air year after year.

While this is indeed the modus operandi for the maintenance-challenged individuals among us, the truth is, a regulator is a pretty hefty investment, and when you spend that much on something it kinda makes you want to take care of it. We’re not talking a major commitment here; we’re talking a few minutes after each day of diving following some simple steps to help extend the life and performance of what is really the most important component of your life support system.

This is all it takes:

1. After a day’s diving, making sure the dust cover is in place, give the reg a quick rinse with a low-pressure hose to knock off any big chunks of dirt, sand or salt.

2. Drop the reg in a bucket of fresh water or the bathroom sink and let it soak for 10 minutes or so.

3. During the soak, swish the second stage around in the water (without depressing the purge button) to get water flowing through the mouthpiece and exhaust tee.

4. Pull the reg out of the water and give it another gentle rinse, making sure you hit all swivels and hose connections. This will require pulling back the hose protectors—if your reg has them—so you can get at the connections to the first stage.

5.Give the first stage and second stage a gentle shake to clear any excess water from the yoke and the exhaust tee. Make sure the dust cover is thoroughly dry on the inside and then put it back in place. Then lay the reg loosely coiled out of direct sunlight to dry.

 

Thanks to Sport Diver

Kathy Dowsett

www.kirkscubagear.com

 

Which Dive Bag Should You Buy?

Which Dive Bag Should You Buy?

Which dive bag?

There are all kinds of dive bags.

There are mesh dive bags and dive bags that look like backpacks. There are duffle dive bags and dive luggage.

These bags range in price from several dollars to several hundred dollars and each bag is best suited to a specific purpose.

With so many different dive bags, one has to wonder which bags are necessary and which ones are extraneous.

Here are some common dive bag types to help you decide which bag is the best for you.

Which Dive Bag? – Mesh Dive Bags

Mesh dive bags generally cost no more than $10 or so dollars.

These bags are usually long so they can hold basic gear like your mask, snorkel and fins. Unfortunately these bags can’t carry much more than that. Mesh bags can’t handle heavy loads.

If you try to load your mesh bag with a buoyancy compensator, regulator set or weights; the bag is likely to rip under the strain.

Which Dive Bag? – Duffle Dive Bags

Duffle dive bags are usually a combination of mesh and a durable fabric.

They’re also more expensive than mesh bags hence the durability.

While the least expensive of these bags can only hold your mask, snorkel and fins; more expensive duffle dive bags are capable of holding heavier equipment as well.

Which Dive Bag? – Backpack Style Dive Bags

These dive bags are my favorite.

The best of the backpack style dive bags are a combination of high durability fabric and mesh for drainage. Many also have separate compartments for your mask and fins.

GatorPac Mesh Backpack Gear Bag

These dive bags can handle an incredible amount of weight. I used to put the following in mine: a buoyancy compensator laden with weight, a regulator set, a save-a-dive kit, mask, snorkel, fins and extra weight in case a student forgot theirs.

My bag easily exceeded 50 lbs (23kg) and it handled the weight like a champ.

Which Dive Bag? – Dive Luggage

Dive luggage is the most expensive of the dive bag family.

Occasionally a new diver will try to bring one of these behemoths onto a dive boat.

Big mistake.

Dive luggage isn’t designed to be used in the field. While these things can cost hundreds of dollars, they have no drainage and they’re rarely waterproof.

What good is a dive bag that you can’t get wet, you ask? The word “luggage” should tip you off here.

Dive luggage is for storing your dive gear when you take it on a plane. Dive luggage is designed to keep your gear stored properly for the 24 to 48 hours that you need to travel to your diving destination.

While dive luggage is superior to normal luggage for transporting your equipment, I’d avoid buying luggage that has a dive flag on it or otherwise suggests that the bag contains dive gear.

There’s no reason to alert potential thieves that the contents of your bag are valuable.

You have plenty of options when it comes to buying a dive bag. The best bag for you will depend on your budget as well as the amount of equipment you need to bring on your dive.

Thanks to Underwater Diving Equipment

Kathy Dowsett

www.kirkscubagear.com

Dive Gear 1000 Lumen Dive Light Review!!!!

1000lumeninsane available @ kirkscubagear

I (Chipola Diver) was recently given an opportunity to test a new dive light, and I was fortunate enough to get a light shipped to me. I have several different backup lights, some which are extremely powerful, at least that’s what I thought prior to testing this new light!

This new light blows all of my other backup lights out of the water. I’d even consider this as a primary light for certain dives. It’s that good! I put this light up against my best backup light and that light looked more like a penlight next to the DRIS light. I also compared it to my 21 watt HID canister light. My HID light was brighter, but the DRIS light stands its own next to it. On one of my dives with this light I pulled it out and used it as a primary while Jen was using her 21 watt HID in front of me. She had no problems seeing my DRIS light or any of my light signals. I am so impressed with this light I bought a second one for Jen while we were at BTS. This picture:::take a look at a comparison of my 21 watt, my Intova Ultranova, and my DRIS light, in that order:

Submited By: Stephen F. on 11/01/2012
Verified Buyer
I bought this light for my recent trip to the Phillipines and all I can say is wow. I would have preferred a lithium ion powered LED light, but couldn’t find one with good reviews so this light was the ticket. I used rechargeable c cells with this light and the results were fantastic. Burn time was about 1.5 hours at full output. Other divers were green with envy as my light lit up the reef, bringing out all the glorious colors. I can honestly say that diving with this light changes the diving experience when diving below 40 feet, or under lower vis conditions or cloudy days. It turns a mono-cromatic world into one exploding with vibrant colors. In low vis conditions, other divers knew exactly where I was as they could see the beam of my light even when they couldn’t see me. None of the other dive lights were remotely as bright as my beam would completely obscure their beams, often from 3 times further away. I could easily have sold my light to numerous divers there. this was $90 very well spent!

Submited By: Daniel R. on 10/29/2012
Verified Buyer
After doing some online research about LED dive lights, I ran across this one and soon bought it. I used it last week for two lobster hunting night dives at Catalina Island. It was far superior to the other handheld lights my buddies were using. Cast a great beam that was both far and wide. When we got out of the water they all wanted to look at it.

Submited By: David H. on 10/24/2012
Verified Buyer
I got this light a few months ago and have about 20 dives on it so far. I love it, its as bright as my buddy’s HID canister light for a fraction of the cost. I’d highly recommend this light to anyone, its well made and a great deal at this price.

Thanks to the Chipole Diver review and my supplier for the reviews!!!

Kathy Dowsett
www.kirkscubagear.com

WaterProof/ShockProof IPod Shuffle

IPod shuffle available from kirkscubagear

I am a swimmer, and athough I love swimming laps, I do find it boring. I used to do all my thinking, and solve all the problems of the world when I swam, but now I would like to be entertained instead of thinking.

I did considerable research on the net for just the right waterproof player. Most had favourable reviews, but for me, it was about being small and compact, and not attaching to my arm.

These are the reasons why I have choosen the Ipod waterproof shuffle!!!

The IPod waterproof shuffle is now used by over 30,000 happy swimmers, and the Waterproof Shuffle has remained the most versatile and reliable MP3 player available. Waterproofed from the inside out, the Shuffle allows you to do away with bulky and unreliable cases and bring your favorite music with you wherever your active life takes you, be it the ocean, pool, gym, snow, or rain. Now its better than ever with Waterfi’s second generation waterproofing technology.

New Technology

Our Process
Waterfi’s new Dual Layer waterproofing technology uses a proprietary, two-step process to make the Shuffle shockproof, waterproof, and corrosionproof. The first step fills the Shuffle with a rubbery, waterproof/shockproof insulator that forms a thick and protective barrier around all the sensitive electronic components on the inside of the device. With the shuffle completely filled, the second layer is applied to enhance the waterproofing and protect the shuffle from threatening chemicals and environments such as oceans, pools, baths, or hot tubs. Throughout this process, the iPod is never opened up, and the Apple’s factory seal is left in tact.

Waterproof and Corossionproof
During the waterproofing process, all the electronic components are sealed with a thick inner layer that creates a strong waterproof seal that protects the Shuffle as deep as 100 feet underwater. The second layer layer fills the remaining space inside the shuffle and insulates the electronics up to 40,000 volts to prevent any short circuits caused by water.

Shockproof
Waterfi’s new Dual Layer technology, takes one more worry off your mind. The thick and rubbery first layer serves as a cushion that protects the electronic components from shocks cause by drops, intense vibrations, and even a washing machine.

Comfortable Design
Unlike the many inconvenient waterproof cases available, the Shuffle is so light and compact that it will never get in the way. The Shuffle’s built-in clip lets you enjoy your music everywhere you go, without relying on uncomfortable straps. Just clip the player to your goggles, wet suit, waistband, shirt, sunglasses, or anywhere else you’re able, and you’ll be ready to hit the water.

Simple Controls

Just One Click
Whether your running, surfing, or swimming laps, the Shuffle is easy to control on the go. With a single click you can change tracks, adjust the volume, or Play/Pause the current track. The simple design makes it quick to find the button you want, so you can focus on your workout.

VoiceOver
The advanced VoiceOver feature on the Shuffle helps you find the songs you are looking for quickly and efficiently. When the VoiceOver button is pressed, the Shuffle will read out loud the names of the song and artist. You can also use the VoiceOver feature to navigate between playlists you create on iTunes and check the battery status of the iPod.

Sync with iTunes
Waterfi Shuffles are genuine Apple iPods that have been sent through our proprietary waterproofing process. This means that you can use iTunes to load your favorite songs, podcasts, and audiobooks, and also create playlists to organize your selections. The Shuffle’s 2GB memory allows you to store approximately 500 songs on your shuffle. iTunes is available for both Windows-based computers and Macs.

Oh did I mention it comes in many colours?

So what are you waiting for? Take your tunes and hit the pool!!!

Kathy Dowsett
www.kirkscubagear.com